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Needle-turn Applique
Hand applique takes more time than fusible applique, but for some people the results are worth the extra time and effort. Here are two popular methods for hand applique.
Freezer-Paper Method
1. Trace around the applique shape (do not include seam allowances) on the paper side of a sheet of freezer paper to create a pattern (Figure A). Reverse the pattern for any directional shapes before tracing. Trace the number of pieces needed to complete the project.
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2. Cut out the freezer-paper shapes on the traced lines. Note: You can layer, pin and cut three or four layers at a time without sacrificing accuracy.
3. Place and press the freezer-paper shapes with the waxy/shiny side down on the wrong side of the fabric leaving 1/2" between shapes (Figure B). Note: The freezer-paper waxy/shiny side will stick to the fabric when heated and can be reused several times.
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4. Cut out shapes, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance beyond the edge of the freezer-paper shape (Figure C).
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5. Clip into curves almost to the paper shape (Figure D). Cut off sharp points 1/8"–1/4" beyond the point of the freezer-paper pattern (Figure E). Clip into inside angles almost to the drawn line (Figure F).
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6. Fold edges over the freezer paper and iron in place a little section at a time using the point of the iron or a mini iron (Figure G). Note: You can apply spray sizing (not spray starch) to the seam allowance before turning to provide a stiff edge. Spray sizing into a dish and use a cotton swab to moisten the seam allowance before turning. Carefully press the seam allowance from both the right and wrong side, then remove the freezer paper. Press again if desired.
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7. When edges are smooth, remove freezer paper (Figure H).
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8. Position the prepared shape on the background. Blind-stitch piece in place using thread to match the fabric. Knot the thread end, insert threaded needle into the folded edge, hiding the knot in the fold, and catch a few threads of the background before pulling out to take the next stitch (Figure I). Stitches should not show.
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Turned-Edge Applique
1. Prepare a template for the applique shape without seam allowance from Mylar template plastic or freezer paper. Trace around shape onto the right side of the fabric using a fine-point pencil.
2. Cut out the shape 1/4" beyond the marked line. Use thread to match the fabric to machine-stitch on the outside edge of the marked line (Figure J). Clip edges as shown in Figure D.
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3. Pin the cut shape in position on the background. Note: If you intend to do a lot of hand applique you may want to invest in some applique pins which are much smaller and finer than a regular pin.
4. Turn in the fabric edge along the outer edge of the stitched line (Figure K). Blind-stitch the piece in place as you turn the edge in a little at a time (Figure L).
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